TCC Territory #19. June 9-16, 2026.
Every wonderful thing you have ever heard about the Galápagos Islands is true. This is not an overhyped destination. This is an amazing place, now one of my favorite spots on the planet, and kudos to Ecuador and The Galápagos National Park Directorate for being so strict about the rules and enforcing daily visitation limits. The islands and all their gazillion creatures are in excellent hands.
Giant tortoises that live nowhere else in the world roam freely. You can snorkel/dive in the midst of marine turtles, Galapagos penguins, sea lions, sea horses, a myriad species of fish, manta rays, and eels. One must be careful where one steps near the beaches and piers because both marine and land iguanas are all over the place. Herons and pelicans and finches fly and perch everywhere. Sea lions drape themselves wherever you would like to sit or walk. Blue-footed boobies perch and nest on rocky shores. Red Sally lightfoot crabs cover the volcanic rocks along the coastlines. And none of these beautiful creatures are afraid of people because humans must always stay at least six feet away from the animals…though that can be difficult when sea lions carpet the piers and iguanas stretch themselves all over the sidewalks.
I am not a fan of lying on beaches, but if you are, there is plenty of that to be had too, and on the most pristine sand I have ever seen in my life. You will share those beaches with iguanas and sometimes sea lions, plus all kinds of birds.
This is a nature-lover’s paradise. If you are a student of biology, then you already knew this of course. This is where Charles Darwin observed the wildlife for five weeks in the early 1800s and, after noting the differences between the finch populations of the various islands, formed his theory of evolution by natural selection.
I visited during peak season, and you know what? It NEVER felt crowded. There’s a reason for that.
Ecuador and The Galápagos National Park Directorate manage the islands well. They are fiercely protective of the biosphere. There are strict daily limits on the number of people who can be on the islands. 97% of the land is off-limits unless you are accompanied by a Park-certified guide. No one can bring any animals, nuts, seeds, etc to the islands. You must sign a statement saying you will adhere to all the rules – which includes staying at least six feet away from animals and backing up if any approach…and never touching any creature, even if it boldly comes to you. There are strict recycling and composting rules. I am happy to say that nearly all the tourists I saw followed the rules. The ones who didn’t got closer than six feet for selfie reasons, but they still never touched an animal. Even little kids behaved themselves. I will say that the locals in the shops seem to keep a sharp eye out and expect tourists to remain respectful of the wildlife at all times. Which is wonderful. And of course the locals must respect the wildlife too, and they do. I saw one mischievous sea lion play with a handyman’s toolbox, and since people are not allowed to touch the animals, the handyman had to patiently wait until the sea lion got bored and moved on before the guy could finish his work.
Getting here from mainland Ecuador is a bit of a process. I did a roundtrip from Quito (the only other option is from Guayaquil) to Baltra (the other option is San Cristóbal) and used LATAM airlines. You must arrive at the airport extra early since you need to 1) pay for your $20 tourist card (fill out the online form and get the QR code before you arrive!), show your return ticket, and answer a bunch of questions about where you are staying for the entire length of your trip then 2) go through a special bag check and show an official signed customs declaration form (again – fill out the form online before you get to the airport and get your QR code)…your luggage will be screened for seeds/nuts/etc, then 3) go through regular security where your stuff will be x-rayed once again, this time for the usual things, then 4) you can proceed to boarding gates assuming you checked in online and have your pass. There will be a zillion people doing the same thing at the same time. I got to the airport at 4:30am and there was already a long line to get through the first step (tourist card “TCT”).
In addition, there is a $200 cash-only entry fee (for adults, $100 for children) due once you land in the Galapagos.
Since you can only get to the islands from mainland Ecuador, I’d dedicate at least a couple of days on either end of your trip to Quito and the surrounding areas. This is what I did (future post), and I wish I had spent even more time in mainland Ecuador as it has a lot to offer and deserves more consideration than just book-ending a Galapagos trip.
I loved loved loved my time in the Galapagos and would say this is truly one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences. The giant tortoises alone were worth the trip. I could hang out and stare at those giant cute faces all day. Watching penguins and pelicans dive into the water to fish, seeing penguins and sea lions and turtles cavorting close together in the waves, looking down while snorkeling to see a giant manta ray swim right underneath me, bicycling in the rain through the highlands…I could go on and on and on. This trip will stand out in my memories for the rest of my life. It was perfect. If you can plan ahead and save up, GO. I wish everyone on the planet could experience this place.
